I was accompanied on the beach by a family of chickens, very curious as to what I was doing and IF I had food or not...
Liz is here for the week from New Zealand and is doing great! This whole week we've been blessed by a ridiculously awesome sweet that breaks perfectly at Laniakea! Everyone has come out slowly, but we started out just having the 3 of us out there! I guess the word got out....by the third day of perfect waves there was a crowd of about 40 people!
This wave was excellent! It got me so excited that I stopped taking pics and went and joined them in the water! I just couldn't miss out on these out-of-season conditions!
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